Route 97

We have become Route 97 fans, following it from Canada through Eastern Washington to Bend, Oregon.  Its landscapes change abruptly.  Turn a corner, go over a hill, and you are in a different world.  And it runs through country we haven’t explored before.

After leaving Oroville, Washington on Monday, we continued on through the Okanagan Valley orchards and vineyards and then emerged into the really arid hills around Lake Chelan and the upper Columbia River area.

Zoe smells a marmot.

Zoe smells a marmot.

We spent Monday night near Wenatchee at Lincoln Rock State Park, which I will forever remember for the marmot infestation. The park has three different grassy and treed loops for camping, which wind around a very dry hillside covered with sagebrush and rocks.  As we drove around looking for a campsite, clusters of marmots were scavenging at recently vacated campsites (it was the end of the long weekend) and would waddle off to the safety of the hillside only to reemerge after our car passed.  They were hardly recognizable as the wild marmots we see on our Alaskan hikes.  They were fat, slow, and kind of like big old rats, only they flattened out when you approached.  I bit nightmarish, really.

Fortunately, we found a nice spot by the water that seemed marmot-free (who knows what they did when the lights were out). It was still busy in the park into late Monday evening, with lots of families swimming, soccer games, and teenagers cruising around.  We were definitely back in civilization.  What a lovely view, though.

Morning view at our campsite at Lincoln Rock

Morning at our campsite at Lincoln Rock

On Tuesday we headed down through the apple growing region around Wenatchee and into the pine hills near Cashmere–a really pretty area as you begin to leave the valley.  The road passes into woodsy mountain terrain and then descends into the Yakima area.  We did not spend much time in Yakima (bank and grocery store time), but I kind of liked it.  It’s a huge, wide valley of farmland with Mediterranean-like hillsides planted with fruit trees and some grapes.

The road changes again as it climbs into another set of hills on the Yakama Reservation, where the smell of pine resin was intoxicating. The trees thinned out again as we descended to the big Columbia River on the Washington/Oregon border.

The hills before the final descent to the river gorge were covered with windmills.  They may be an eyesore to some, but I loved them.  They looked like moving sculptures on the hill tops and sides, moving in unison—or not.  Either way, it was like a dance.  We met our first real wind that afternoon, with lots of swirling gusts coming through the gullies and over the hillsides.  Windmill watching for me and concentrated driving for George, as we were hit from every direction by gusts.

Descent to the river by Maryhill S.P.

Descent to the river by Maryhill S.P.

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We camped at Maryhill State Park that night, right on the banks of the Columbia.  It was absolutely beautiful, with the cut banks of the river, a field of grass behind our campsite, and mature sweet gums, maples, birches, and other ornamentals planted throughout the park. There must not be any concern about drought in Eastern Washington, because sprinklers were going in every park we visiting as if there was water to spare—and then some.

Maryhill State Park

Maryhill State Park

The Columbia from Maryhill

The Columbia from Maryhill

We woke to increased winds in the morning and huge whitecaps on the river. The bridge to Oregon is a fairly high one and I was picturing a gust blowing the trailer right off the bridge (one of my only irrational fears).  The winds were forecast to get worse, so off we went.  The bridge was fine—a stupid fear overcome–and we followed Route 97 into Oregon.

Route 97 near Moro, Oregon

Route 97 near Moro, Oregon

An unexpected pleasure–Oroville, Washington

Memorial Day weekend posed a problem.  Where to go without reservations?  We had mail waiting for us over the border in Washington and didn’t want to linger in Canada through the weekend.  But all of the state parks in northeastern Washington were booked solid for the long weekend.  We called several decent-looking private RV parks.  No luck, all full.  I was worried.

With visions of spending a three-day weekend in various Walmart parking lots, we headed to Washington.  After finishing the final leg of the Cassiar Highway on Monday, we drove for two days through British Columbia, with lush farming and timber regions on the Yellowhead Highway and arid, craggy hills around Cache Creek.  By the way, British Columbia is very large. On Wednesday, we headed southeast through Kamloops and Kelowna on Route 97.  Kelowna was not what we expected. It is in the beautiful Okanagan Valley—full of vineyards and fruit trees.  But the main road was an endless, traffic-ridden strip of every imaginable retail store, chain restaurant, and outlet mall, clogged with people at 1:30 on a weekday afternoon.

For an hour or so I wondered why we had left Alaska.  Then we crossed the border into Oroville and things quickly improved. It is a funky little border town–still in the fertile Okanagan region–without a chain store in sight.  Our mail wasn’t in yet, so we had to overnight somewhere nearby.  We decided to check out the Osoyoos Veterans Memorial Park, which turned out to be an amazing campground wedged between the edge of town and the southern end of Lake Osoyoos, a gorgeous lake stretching across the border into Canada.

Our lucky campground--you can just see the truck.

Our lucky campground–you can see the truck if you look closely.

The park was almost empty.  You would expect a Veterans Memorial Park to be busy over Memorial Day weekend, wouldn’t you?  But no.  Apparently everyone heads to the big mountains and this lovely, serene gem in the foothills had plenty of room for us.  In fact, on our first two days here, the place was almost empty.

The swimming beach with one woman and a baby. It's a refreshing swim.

The swimming beach to the right with one woman and a baby. It’s a refreshing swim.

We enjoyed the sun and heat, with swimming several times a day for me and Zoe.  The park is bordered on three sides by water—the lake at the end, with an estuary on one side and a river on the other.

The lake.

The lake.

The river.

The river.

Our willow-side camsite.

Our willow-side campsite.  Notice that there is no one around.

There are birds everywhere and frogs are going full-throat in the evening.

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Even with the weekend now in full swing, the park is not even remotely full and most of the campers are Canadians, down from B.C.

We love it here.  We had brunch today at an excellent restaurant downtown, the Pastime Bar and Grill.  It was big-city quality in this tiny town and they let Zoe sit next to us at an outside table.  Then we drove up into the hills east of town to Molson, a ghost town that has been preserved as a museum.

Old Molson

Old Molson

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Molson is at almost 4,000 feet elevation.  Lots of snow in the winter but dry and sunny now.

Molson is at almost 4,000 feet elevation. Lots of snow in the winter but dry and sunny now.

Molson's law office.  Even then.

Molson’s law office.

We lucked out on this one.

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